We supply boat trailers alongside our hauling business, and we source them for customers whose boats arrive without one. Below are the trailer types we deal in, how to match one to your boat, and what to check before you buy. For current availability and pricing, get in touch or call 1-800-492-7713 — we will confirm what we can get for your hull and where it can be delivered.
Trailer types we deal in
Aluminum Tandem Axle
Corrosion-resistant and light. The usual choice for saltwater and for mid-size boats.
Galvanized Triple Axle, Bunks
Three axles spread the load for heavier hulls. Galvanised steel for strength at a lower cost than aluminium.
Aluminum Tandem Axle, Bunks
Bunk support along the length of the hull, on a light, corrosion-resistant frame.
Aluminium or galvanised steel?
This is the first decision, and the water you boat in usually makes it for you.
| Aluminium | Galvanised steel | |
|---|---|---|
| Corrosion resistance | Excellent — the standard choice for saltwater | Good, until the coating is scratched through |
| Weight | Lighter, so more of your tow rating goes to the boat | Heavier |
| Strength | Adequate for most recreational hulls | Stronger for a given section size |
| Cost | Higher | Lower |
| Best for | Saltwater, frequent launching, long tows | Freshwater, heavier boats, tighter budgets |
Painted steel is cheaper again, but it belongs in freshwater only and will not last if it is dunked in salt.
How many axles?
| Configuration | Typical use |
|---|---|
| Single axle | Smaller boats, roughly up to 3,500 lb all-in. Easier to manoeuvre by hand. |
| Tandem axle | The common choice above that. Better highway stability, and a blown tire does not put the boat on the road. |
| Triple axle | Large or heavy hulls, where the load needs spreading across more tires and brakes. |
More axles also mean more tires, bearings and brakes to maintain. Do not buy more trailer than the boat needs.
Bunks or rollers?
Bunks are carpeted timber or composite rails that support the hull along its length. They spread the load well, they are cheap to maintain, and they suit deeper V-hulls. The trade-off is that you need to back further into the water to float the boat off.
Rollers let the boat come off and on at shallow ramps with far less immersion, which matters if your ramp is flat or your tow vehicle is not four-wheel drive. They carry the hull at points rather than along a line, so they need to be adjusted correctly to avoid marking the gelcoat.
Sizing a trailer to your boat
Match the trailer to the loaded weight, not the brochure weight. Add up the hull's dry weight, the engine or engines, a full fuel tank, batteries, and the gear you actually leave aboard — then leave headroom on top of that, rather than buying to the exact number.
Two further measurements matter. The bunks or rollers have to support the hull at its structural points, so the trailer needs to suit the hull shape, not just the length. And tongue weight should sit at roughly 10–15% of the total: too little and the trailer sways at speed, too much and it takes the steering weight off your tow vehicle's front axle.
If you are not certain, send us the make, model and year of the boat and we will work the numbers with you.
What to check before you buy
- Capacity plate. Confirm the rated capacity in writing, and check it against your loaded weight.
- Frame. Look for rust perforation at the crossmembers and the tongue — the two places that fail first.
- Bearings and hubs. Ask when they were last serviced, and whether they have bearing protectors.
- Brakes. Check whether the trailer has them and whether your province requires them at that weight.
- Lights and wiring. Sealed LED units last far longer on a trailer that gets submerged.
- Tires. Trailer-rated, not car tires, and check the date codes — trailer tires usually age out before they wear out.
- Paperwork. Make sure you get the ownership and, where your province requires it, a plate.
Getting the trailer to you — or the boat to it
We are a hauling company first, so delivery is the straightforward part. We can move a trailer to you anywhere in Canada, and if you have just bought a boat that needs a trailer under it, we can put the two together and move them as one.
If your boat already has a road-worthy trailer, shipping the boat and trailer together is the cheapest way to move it, at approx. $1.30–$1.40 per kilometer. For everything on methods, rates and oversize permits, see our guide to boat shipping.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know which boat trailer is right for my boat?
Match the trailer’s rated capacity to your boat’s loaded weight — hull, engines, full fuel, batteries and gear — with headroom on top, and make sure the bunks or rollers support your hull shape at its structural points. Send us the make, model and year and we will work it out with you.
Aluminium or galvanised steel — which should I choose?
Aluminium if you boat in saltwater, launch often, or want to keep trailer weight down. Galvanised steel if you are in freshwater, the boat is heavy, or budget is the deciding factor. Painted steel is freshwater-only.
Do I need trailer brakes?
It depends on the loaded weight and on your province’s rules, which set the threshold at which brakes become mandatory. Tandem and triple axle trailers carrying heavier boats will generally need them. Confirm the requirement for the province the trailer will be registered in.
Can you deliver a trailer, or move my boat and trailer together?
Yes to both. We deliver anywhere in Canada, and moving a boat on its own road-worthy trailer is our cheapest transport option at approx. $1.30–$1.40 per kilometer.